A Journey by Train: Tracks in Europe We"re taking a train across Europe, from the coast of France all the way to Athens, a trip that has our friends expressing their concern.【F1】 The general feeling seems to be that France and Italy are fine—but the ferry from Italy and the train ride across Greece They call it "traveling rough". The first leg is easy, from the French port of Calais to Paris. And very comfortable too.【F2】 One of the benefits of a Eurail pass is that you get to travel first class(unless you"re using a youth pass), and for the first time in our lives we ride a train in a "compartment" just as in the movies. These compartments seat six but today we"re the only occupants so we spread ourselves and our luggage around. 【F3】 Our reward: three days in Paris. We thrill to all the things you"re supposed to thrill to - the Eiffel Tower, the Louver, the Arc de Triomphe. But the really memorable moment in this city is one of those spontaneous human s you can never plan for. The trick of traveling, I guess, is to be ready to savor whatever happens. I"m standing on the corner by one of the famous bridges across the River Seine, the Pont Neuf.【F4】 There"s nothing special about it. In a city battered by the roar of endless cars, it"s just another crossroads where two large streams of traffic meet. All roar, more roar and uproar. (Cars are the great bane of Europe. The inner city streets of most of the old cities were never designed for this sort of traffic—and it shows.) 【F5】 I pause among the surging pedestrians to ease my weary feet. That"s when I hear it. Rising triumphantly above the howl of the traffic, catchy music jingles in the air. I look around me. It"s coming from... an organ grinder(街头手风琴师). 【F6】 Everyone is hurrying and straining to be somewhere else. But my wiry little organ grinder pours his heart into bringing this corner alive with his music. Old favorite songs dance gaily above our heads—"Can Can", "Lara"s Theme", "Funiculi-Funieula"—these popular songs form past decades have a European father then an American flavour. 【F7】 Amazingly, a furry cat is fast asleep on top of the music machine ignoring everything around it as if this was some peaceful garden rather than a precarious perch that shakes with every turn of its owner"s arm. And in a basket by the organ"s pram wheels, a dog dreams peacefully while commuters pour out from an underground station. My organ grinder has discovered the miracle of perpetual motion. Round and round goes his arm, his body rocking to the effort.【F8】 Casually the transfers the handle from one hand to the other, catching it as it twirls, the: music leaping around him as if it would whisk him and his machine over the rooftops and away past Notre Dame Cathedral(巴黎圣母院)or along the Champs Elysees(香榭丽舍大道) . Mind you, he"s not the only one presiding over this noisy corner. Two police officers are here as well, charged with maintaining order. One is male, youthful and confident.【F9】 The other is ... well, a police girl. Her gun is almost as big as she is. Her weapon belt sags on her hips. Maybe in a couple of years she"ll develop into a police-woman, but it"ll take at least that long to grow into her official-issue trousers. But, petite as she is, this Parisienne carries with her all the authority of the French gendarmerie. The traffic at the come is clogging up—as it does repeatedly during my half-hour. Boldly she blows her whistle and strides out into the surge of traffic.【F10】 Angry cars growl to a halt and sullenly crouch at her feet, snarling their annoyance, fretting to be away. But, cowed by her tiny arm they bite back their frustration and wait till this uniformed child waves them on. 【F8】